I should have mentioned that when i do a binoc collim, my eyes will merge
the images and make me think Im done when I am not.
So to keep that from happening, I focus one side and defocus the other
side with the "diopter adjustement" so that one side is sharp and the
other side fuzzy. It is pretty easy to overlay the sharp picture to the
fuzzy picture with the screws but your brain wont decide to do it for
itself.
Here is a quote from a message on binoc collim.
=============
Binocular Minor Collimation Procedures
by Pete Rasmussen
The typical (and usually very simple) collimation procedure for the 15x70
BEAR binoculars is often as an easy operation. One notable exception to
this is when the binoculars are in gross misalignment. Gross misalignment
is easily determined when the large circle of light beamed through the
eyepiece end, as viewed _from_ the objective end, is noted as
significantly off center of the binoculars internals. In other words, this
large disc of light (which is the same exact thing as the aperture opening
of the eyepiece itself) will not be seen as circularly centered against
the circles that are the prism hole in the middle of the binos, and the
objective lens circumference. These three areas mentioned are viewed in
series from the front (objective) end of the binoculars. Choose the
optical tube that looks the most misaligned when ready to make the needed
collimation adjustment.
If the binoculars were already misaligned, or had become that way from a
drop, etc., most often only a slight tweaking of one or both of the tiny
set screws, that tilt the rear porro prisms (the ones nearest the
eyepieces), is all that should be required. This procedure will true up
the parallel nature of the two binocular tubes that make up the binocular
vision.
To accomplish this truing of alignment, one should set the binos on a
solid surface pointing them horizontally. Center in the field of view a
focused image of a prominent, distant (about 1/2 mile or more away) fixed
object. Tripod mounting the binoculars is also optionally good for
stabilizing for this procedure and may be preferred to the solid surface
mounting approach. The reason is you might can more readily position
yourself behind the binos to work on them.
Take a very small 1mm size jeweler's flat bladed screwdriver and stick it
into the gap at the edge of the rubber covering next to the prism covers
(see image showing the location). These prism covers are the ones with the
name and specifications on them and are located just under the eyepieces.
The location to do the "prying" is right above the word "BEAR" on the left
tube assembly, and also above the numbering "15x70" on the right tube
assembly.
Work the screwdriver tip back and forth to scrape and pry loose the
attachment of the rubber from the body itself. Separate the rubber just
far enough back away from the body so you are able to grasp the edge of
the rubber covering with thumb and forefinger. That will be enough so that
the alignment screw can be easily accessed. Place a small acorn nut or
similar object under the rubber covering to keep it well raised enough for
accessing the adjustment screw. Place the screwdriver tip into the screw
in the set screw hole. Next, place your eyes about 6" away from the
eyepieces while looking at the chosen distant fixed object. View through
both bino tubes together (at this 6" distance from the bino eyepieces) as
you normally would do with regular viewing.
Turn the tiny screw back and forth slowly (less than 1/4 of a turn each
way) while watching the images shift apart from one another or merge
together. Find and stop turning it at the point where it seems to be best
for a well joined (fused) image as viewed through both bino tubes. Note:
Instead of being 6" away, you may have better results trying this
procedure with the eyes right up to the binoculars as they would normally
be used. See which works better for your eyes.
If the image still seems to remain a bit out of alignment no matter how
close you can get the image to fuse, turn the tiny screw on the other tube
in the same fashion to *walk* the images together better. The images will
walk at a 90 degree angle to that of the first tubes adjustment screw
motion. Once you get a feel for the motions involved with this, that
should be all it takes to get good alignment with both optical tubes. The
rubber covering most normally springs right back into place so there is
not a need to glue it down. You can always go back and adjust things again
if ever needed.
Good luck ... and may the images happily merge together for you!
Sincerely,
Tara Rodriguez
Barska Optics
Tara Rodriguez
Account Executive
---------
Phil Chambers [ptchamb-at-svpal.org] (S.F. Bay Area - Calif. USA)
On Sat, 5 Jan 2008, Joe Lin wrote:
> Hi Everyone
> I recently purchased the Celestron SkyMaster 15x70 Binoculars w/Tripod
> Adapter. They are avaiable from Amazon with solid reviews
> here<http://www.amazon.com/Celestron-SkyMaster-Binoculars-Tripod-Adapter/dp/B00008Y0VN>
> .
> Upon receiving them, I discovered that I am seeing double vision for objects
> at infinity or very far away. For closer objects at around 50-100 feet, my
> eyes can focus the two images together, but it is obvious that my eyes are
> doing some work to overlap them and the overall view does not appear as a
> single circular hole but rather overlapping circles such as
> this<http://images.artnet.com/artwork_images%5C112895%5C128090.jpg>
> .
>
>
> It is obvious that I need collimation. I read the article here
> <http://www.cloudynights.com/item.php?item_id=416>about adjusting the
> prisms. I would like to try adjusting the prisms on my own but am not able
> to determine exactly where the collimation screws are. I took a picture of
> my binoculars and circled where I believe the collimation screws may be.
>
> http://picasaweb.google.com/joelin02/Misc/photo#5152142250028989314
>
> Those screws belong to one side of the binocular. Which one of those three
> actually tilt the prisms? If those aren't it, where are they then? I know
> people owning Celestron's have reported on Amazon as successfully
> collimating them, but I'm not sure which screw does what.
>
> Thanks for any help!
> Joe
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Received on Sat Jan 05 19:29:10 2008