Better late than never... this goes back to March 2005....
=================
Our trip to Chile came as a surprise. I received an e-mail from an amateur astronomer in North Carolina, saying he was
looking for a group to go with him in March. At first I replied no, I would not be interested. Not that I had anything
against the idea, I'd wanted to go observing in Chile for a good number of years, but it just didn't seem something I
could really do in under three months. As soon as I mentioned it to Monica, the big push was on. She is a seasoned
traveler to South America, and jumped at the chance.
Before we knew it, we were on an American Airlines flight to Los Angeles, connecting to a LAN flight that would layover
a while in Lima, and continue on to Santiago. The views of the Sea of Cortez and the mountain town of Mexico were
spectacular. Nightfall overtook us south of Mexico City, and we arrived at sunrise in Chile. An omen that we were in
the right place was right outside the international terminal - a billboard showing the European Southern Observatory at
Parannal. We had a few hour layover, then continued on a domestic flight north to La Serena.
La Serena is Chile's second largest, and oldest city. It has a beautiful crescent beach that makes it the most popular
summer vacation destination for Chilenos. The row of hotels that front the beach testify to that. It is like Waikiki
South. We arrived just after "season" and had the place to ourselves. Now it was an old but attractive city of
restaurants, churches, musicians, street artists, and children in Catholic school uniforms.
We stayed at the El Punto Hostel, run by a wonderful German couple. That is where the rest of our group met up. Our
international astro caravan was comprised of David and Gloria Butler (from North Carolina), Tom Palmer, Ray Cash, Monica
and me. We rented a 9 passenger diesel Kia, which was fine for transporting luggage and passengers, but a bit crowded
with four telescopes.
Ray and I observed the first night in La Serena with my 10" CPT. We had nice views of several new to us southern
objects. It was amazing to see how easily Eta Carina should up, from the big city backyard.
We broke up our stay in La Serena with two observing side trips.
The first was to Collowara observatory, just outside the mountain copper mining town of Andacollo. The town was
picturesque by night - large town square, big church, and on the sidewalks - donkeys - standing around with nothing to
do. Local color.
Colloware is a public observatory built by the local district in cooperation with Chile's federal government. It is a
beautiful facility, look at it:
http://www.collowara.cl/presenta2.htm
It was here at Collowara I stepped out of the van and noticed, for the first time, the sky was upside down, and there
were two unusual clouds, made of stars... My world was suddenly inverted, and new sights greeted me. I had arrived.
We observed at Collowara with a 16" Meade Dob, and a 12" LX-200. The views only whetted our appetites.
The next day we headed north toward La Silla observatory to observe from the southern Atacama Desert and tour the
facility. Our accommodations were spartan, at a truck stop run by a man named Darwin, on the Pan American Highway (hwy
5).
Two kilometers toward the mountains was the abandoned old La Silla airport, that used to serve the observatory. We set
up on one of the runways, and soon the sky became so black, we could not see each other without flashlights. That's
almost no exaggeration. Of course the starlight showed our forms, but there was no detail at all. We had a 13.1" Dob,
two 10's, and a 5" Mak. The evening was one of silence punctuated by exclamations of "you've gotta see this!".... I
found it almost absurd, but to me, the view of the night was Jupiter. All the way to South America - and the detail
visible due to the incredible steadiness at the site made Jupiter the view of the night!
Funny how things stick in your mind, but this was maybe my favorite place - as breakfast at the stop saw the sunrise
golden over the Andes, with the observatory atop the mountains, the barren Atacama laid out before me across the
highway, looking like a painted desert, and the waitress bringing me food as I practiced my poor Spanish with her. It
was the only place in Chile I was alone in the culture. It is a personal moment, frozen in time.
After everyone was ready we drove up the mountain to La Silla. I suppose the first trip to a large world-renowned
observatory is for an amateur astronomer akin to a Muslim going to the Hajj, a Jew the Wailing Wall, or Christian to
Jerusalem. I was awe-struck. The highlight had to be nearly fogging the mirror of the NTT with my breath, we stood so
close to it. I don't care what anyone would advise, if I were to do it again, I'd find a way to be on a scope like that
for a profession! The other telescopes in the various observatories were also pretty cool, but the NTT was a marvel.
We were fortunate that David had arranged a private tour of the facility for us with Oscar Saa, who has worked at La
Silla for 35 years, and was the telescope operator there for first light.
We returned to La Serena and next day we were off to Vicuna (put a tilde over the n to be correct). The town of 20,000
is the gateway to the Elqui Valley, and our destination was the end of the road, at La Frontera - at over 6,000 feet of
elevation in the Andes. Monica, Ray and I relieved the crowding in the van by taking a local bus to Vicuna, which was a
lot of fun! The town itself is picturesque, and totally off the beaten path for Americano tourists. It is also in the
heart of the Pisco 34 degree growing region. Let me tell you, those Pisco Sours are a little brandy drink with a big
kick! During the trip Monica and I toured Capel, the largest Pisco distillery in Chile - it felt like we were in Napa
Valley. For a taste of what it is like, check this ad out:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7aobpI8NrbU
Here's Capel's web-site, with a picture of the Elqui Valley:
http://www.piscocapel.cl/empresa/index3.htm
What a place!
That night I stayed in town with Monica, who had twisted an ankle, while Ray, David and Tom hooked up with some local
Chileno amateur astronomers to go observing . Next day, we all, except Monica, jumped in the van for a ride up to Cerro
Tololo for another private tour, the further into the Andes, along the jagged peaks, to the new SOAR and Gemini
Observatories. We toured SOAR... and as far as seeing fantasy become fact, the interior of the dome looked like a scene
out of the best astronomically based sci-fi movie you could imagine. Our guide took us in, grabbed the control paddle,
and like operating a Meade LX-200, put the 4.1 meter instrument through its paces. I was way too cool to see the front
of the scope turn toward us, while the mirror covers lifted and folded away to expose the big glass... have a look:
http://www.soartelescope.org/release/00home/eng_home.php
The next day, we were all in the van. It was cozy and fun as we drove higher up the valley then off a spur toward
Cochiguaz (a hippie town known for "pyramid power" and herbal healing), Pisco Elqui - which is very quaint, then leaving
the pavement for the last 11 miles to the village of Alcohauz and our destination at La Frontera. I can't stress how
wonderful a base of operation La Frontera is. Monica and I had a two bedroom fully furnished stone house, fireplace in
a large living room, full kitchen, large dining room, rock deck that opened out into a nice stream with a rocked-off
pool by the deck. Our meals, breakfast and dinner, each day were prepared in our house by Cecelia, a beautiful Chileno
woman probably in her 30's. Ray, Tom, David and Gloria had another house on site. Imager Loke Tan and family as well
as an imaging friend had the largest house. We set our telescopes up in front of Ray, Tom and David's. And there we
spent night after night, picking out new objects. The Megallanic Clouds were in good position. Eta Carina and the
outstandingly rich array of deep sky targets in its vicinity we plenty to keep us all busy.
I recall the views of the Eta Carina Nebula, as well as the Gabriella Mistral Nebula, were spectacular. As was the
amazing view of Omega-rise. Each night, as we were winding down, I would train my scope on the grandest globular of
them all, Omega Centauri, as it was rising over the jagged tops of the Andes. The view is one I'll never forget, and
hope to repeat (next year - 2008) - the sharply defined black crags of the Andes, in my eyepiece, with the great
globular climbing out of the blackness.
I think we all got our money's worth. The last day, we packed up and drove back to La Serena. We found a place to
stay, and at a local bar said our good-bye to David and Gloria, who were driving south to meet a friend near Santiago.
The next day Tom and Ray took a bus south, as Monica and I headed back to the airport.
I miss Chile. So I am going back. It is the astronomy center of the world now. Even the local governments are
building community observatories, and astronomy is intertwined into all educational disciplines in the school system.
There is a big eco-tourism movement there that includes astronomy as a main feature. The skies are pristine, which is
why observatories are springing up like springtime wildflowers. And the people we met, were so friendly, considerate,
hospitable, and the feel so non-U.S. that you can really say, really know, that "Dorothy, we're not in Kansas
anymore".... it is a great experience to be there.
I've left out tons of details, otherwise this could become quote a tome. If you want more info, other stories from the
trip, corner me at GSSP or some local observing site.
As for Chile....
I will return to drive up the valleys, between the naked copper streaked peaks, through the vineyards and citrus, to
where the stars of the south welcome the astronomy adventurer. I'll take some friends along agian.... a small
astro-caravan south is a great experience....
Estrellas brillante por todos!
Mark
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Visit Ray Cash's web-page to see some pictures of the trip, and investigate the links he has compiled:
http://pages.sbcglobal.net/raycash/whychile.htm
mw
ps - this is the best reconstruction of events I can do on the fly. I cannot vouch for the correctness of time frames.
My observing buddies should feel free to jump in and comment.
m
TAC's Golden State Star Party at Mount Lassen
July 11 - 14, 2007 http://www.goldenstatestarparty.org
Received on Tue Apr 24 17:31:43 2007